International Telstar Owners Association

Ron-
Thank you for all your efforts!

Did a little research about polysulfide sealants. According to 3m and Boatlife, it will attack acrylics (lexan, etc.) but not other "plastics" like abs, nylon, delrin, etc. I think it's the best choice for this application, and a lot better than silicone.

For deck hardware, I prefer using butyl tape, unless an adhesive sealant is required. This particular application doesn’t require an adhesive sealant. Silicone is horrible stuff and really has very little place on a boat IMHO, outside of covering cotter pin ends.

Ron,

Thanks. I'll call them, but it's Mardi Gras weekend here and I may be delayed a bit.

After all the work by you and Guido I just installed my Telstar version of the line control cars - and found out they didn't fit. The final problem was that the track was placed so close to the house that the ball bearing car on which the sheeve is mounted struck the side of the cabin. I suspect my boat is unique. PCI probably did not use a jig or pattern to install the genoa track. Not a complaint - just wanted to let the owners know they ned to check their individual boat before they try this mod if they want to avoid frustration. I still think the Garhauer gear is great. I just can't use it.

Mark -

This is strange - it should fit. I used YOUR track to wall measurements (1/2 inch from edge of track to cabin, or 1 1/8 inches from the middle of the 1 1/4 inch track) as the worst case scenario. You had emailed me a diagram of the setup. I'm assuming that it's the sliding (center) car that's hitting. The single sheave (with becket) is only 1 3/4 inches wide - or 7/8 on each side of the center of the block. There SHOULD be about 1/4 inch between the sheave and cabin. Maybe they sent you the wrong cars? Note that the original sliding car had larger sheaves.

Nope. It is the slider itself. The car that holds the cam cleat makes it thru, but the ball Bearing slider doesn't. And the turning block with the becket is the same as your rig. I measured the clearance at the end where I could see it, I don't know if there is a subtle curve in the cabin or the track or what, but I have given up.

Hi Mark,

I know it might not be the best solution but I installed the Schaffer system on my boat because at the time there was no Garhauer solution. Its works well for me and at the very least will give you the adjustable line control without having to get out of the cockpit and moving the pin stops. My boat is a 2005 Hull #311 and the track is very close to the cabin but because of the slider system used on the Schaffer it works quite well.

I use a continuous line and added cleats on the outside of the cockpit.

I have enclosed some photos to review and see if this might be an option for you.

gary g.

I appreciate it Gary. I'm just going to have to decide whether I'm really in the mood to try this a fourth time.

Gary -

Your Schaeffer system actually looks a drop wider than the Garhauer. Could you measure the width of the widest part of the sliding and forward cars - it should be the sideways mounted sheaves and/or fiddle. The Garhauer cars are just under 1 3/4 inches wide - or around 7/8 inches on each side of the track center. Maybe measure the distance from the center of the track to the cabin wall as well, which could be as low as 1 1/8 inch. The newer boats have a lot more room. I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong on Mark's boat.

Also - your picture shows a turning block mounted at the back end of the track. Never seen that. Boats I've seen have the turning block mounted on the reinforced stanchion.

Mark - I told Guido to use those sheaves because they were 1/4 inch smaller than the distance you quoted. We could have gone smaller. You're 1/2 inch space from the edge of the track to the cabin plus half of the width of the track should be 1 1/8 inch. The cars only need 7/8 inch.