Fall boat work

Detailed posts on modifications and projects.
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trashpad

Fall boat work

Post by trashpad »

Here is the punch list of what I did,

1. Found small "Bumps" on the main hull,
a. Ground out all the larger ones and sanded down the small ones.
b. Filled the spots with epoxy and West filler
c. Sanded main hull a bunch and sanded the amas just enough to prep them for painting,
d. Painted 4 coats of 2000 and 2.5 coats of Hydracoat.
e. Raised the bottom paint about 2 inches on the amas.

2. Removed the rudder and found it had some water in it.
a. Removed all the water I could and sealed the seams with epoxy
b. Painted it the same and the bottom

3. Fixed three spots that had stress cracks.
a. Used four layers of glass behind the cracks to reinforce.
b. PCI gave me some Gelcoat to match the outside.

4. Reworked the rudder control lines with SS cable.

5. Resealed the round ama inspection ports.

6. Full workup on the Honda.

7. Followed Dan's guide on waxing the three hulls.

8. Replaced the rudder compartment hatch.

9. To many small jobs to remember.


Over all it was great to have the boat in the drive way, (Thanks John for your help) but better to get her back in the slip. Two big jobs I did not get to were servicing the sails and waxing the topsides. There is always time in the spring.
Don
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Fall boat work

Post by Don »

Greetings, I hope you all are having a good Winter... it is like new England again here on Long Island. I saw your fall list and it looks a lot like my spring list... i kept the boat in the water too long and the weather got cold fast. i just had time to winterize... where were the stress cracks you found? do you think that doing the rudder with cable instead of line will reduce the "pop up feature" if you pass through shallow water? TY for thee info... Don
Ron
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Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:15 pm
Location: SW Florida
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Fall boat work

Post by Ron »

I imagine that he replaced just the lower lines (below the block) with stainless cable. The uppers are probably still rope. I used Amsteel (dyneema) rope instead. Just as strong, probably goes around the blocks a little easier. You've got to make sure that the lines have a clear path where it goes thru the transom. Mine does now after I took a dremel tool to it. The downhaul also wraps around the deck/transom joint and that has to be smooth as well. I also used half of a wooden dowel where the amsteel line goes thru the steel portion of the rudder assembly and then back out. That seems to prevent the steel from cutting thru the line.

The pop-up rudder is dependent on the jammer not being all that tight. Jamb that down hard and something will eventually break.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
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