Adjustable Traveller System
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:24 am
The following was destined for the never produced No 2 issue of the newsletter -
Tech Corner Vol1 No2
As promised in the last issue, I’ll document the now installed line control traveler system. My goal was to develop a reasonable cost alternative to the spring pin blocks that hold the car in place. The pins make it difficult to reposition the car, especially when there is any real load on the mainsheet. With a 3 to 1 purchase line control, you will be able to easily trim the mainsail with the traveler – a better way of doing it. Using only the sheet will guarantee that the sail is not properly trimmed.
The best fix would be to replace the whole thing with a custom raised traveler track and car that would clear the seats and tiller post, but that would cost a lot more than any of us wants to spend. The problem with doing it using the existing track is that it is partially recessed between the seats and the control lines will not have a fair lead as they pass through the space occupied by the tiller post and arm. My compromise, although not perfect, works very well for my needs. The problems are that you can’t raise the tiller arm more than about 45 degrees when the car is close to the ends of the track, and that it slightly impedes access to and from the stern seats – the control lines are about 3 to 4 inches above the level of the seats – and less if you have cushions.
Our track is made by Schaeffer and it was curved specifically for this application – to fit in the narrow channel between the cockpit and stern seats. The standard car is their 4 wheel 72-32 model, used with their spring pin control slides to control car placement. They make a similar car (72-36) which has sheaves and bails for a line control system. The still better 6 wheel car will not handle the curve on the track. The car modifications consisted of: sheaves and bails, a guide plate and spacer bushing, longer screws, etc., which will turn it into the 72-36 car. Schaeffer wants to do all future modifications themselves ($65 plus shipping) for quality and insurance reasons, but the parts are available – 2 ball bearing 1 1/16 sheaves (#62-214), 2 becket bails (78-93), 1 cheek plate (35-310), 1 spacer (25-007-68), 2 10-24x1.25 stainless screws (22-290) and 1 ¼-20 x 1.12 stainless screw (22-363) for those who can do it themselves. This works OK, but I have since added a 1/2 high x 1 1/2 wide x 3 inch long nylon spacer with still longer screws to get more clearance above the tiller post. Note that you will have to grind down the center bolt and nut to fit under the mainsheet block stamped shackle - just like PCI did on your boat now. I am not using the sheaves in the 72-36 car, preferring to attach two Harken 083 single bullet blocks with becket to the bails on car with 1/4 inch D shackles.. This is a non swiveling block to prevent the control line from twisting. This improves the angle as the car is pulled towards the ends of the track - compared to the horizontal sheaves mounted on the car itself.
I added a Johnson pulpit anchor to each stanchion at the end of the track (about 1 1/2 inch above same part used for the genoa turning block) and aimed them towards the tiller post. I then attached a Ronstan RF40520 fiddle (with swivel and adjustable cam cleat) to each pulpit anchor. I used about 32 feet of Stayset 5/16 line to make one continuous control line.
If anyone has an idea for an article for this section, please send it to me at CaptRon@optonline.net.
Ron Marcuse “Tri-Power” #359
Tech Corner Vol1 No2
As promised in the last issue, I’ll document the now installed line control traveler system. My goal was to develop a reasonable cost alternative to the spring pin blocks that hold the car in place. The pins make it difficult to reposition the car, especially when there is any real load on the mainsheet. With a 3 to 1 purchase line control, you will be able to easily trim the mainsail with the traveler – a better way of doing it. Using only the sheet will guarantee that the sail is not properly trimmed.
The best fix would be to replace the whole thing with a custom raised traveler track and car that would clear the seats and tiller post, but that would cost a lot more than any of us wants to spend. The problem with doing it using the existing track is that it is partially recessed between the seats and the control lines will not have a fair lead as they pass through the space occupied by the tiller post and arm. My compromise, although not perfect, works very well for my needs. The problems are that you can’t raise the tiller arm more than about 45 degrees when the car is close to the ends of the track, and that it slightly impedes access to and from the stern seats – the control lines are about 3 to 4 inches above the level of the seats – and less if you have cushions.
Our track is made by Schaeffer and it was curved specifically for this application – to fit in the narrow channel between the cockpit and stern seats. The standard car is their 4 wheel 72-32 model, used with their spring pin control slides to control car placement. They make a similar car (72-36) which has sheaves and bails for a line control system. The still better 6 wheel car will not handle the curve on the track. The car modifications consisted of: sheaves and bails, a guide plate and spacer bushing, longer screws, etc., which will turn it into the 72-36 car. Schaeffer wants to do all future modifications themselves ($65 plus shipping) for quality and insurance reasons, but the parts are available – 2 ball bearing 1 1/16 sheaves (#62-214), 2 becket bails (78-93), 1 cheek plate (35-310), 1 spacer (25-007-68), 2 10-24x1.25 stainless screws (22-290) and 1 ¼-20 x 1.12 stainless screw (22-363) for those who can do it themselves. This works OK, but I have since added a 1/2 high x 1 1/2 wide x 3 inch long nylon spacer with still longer screws to get more clearance above the tiller post. Note that you will have to grind down the center bolt and nut to fit under the mainsheet block stamped shackle - just like PCI did on your boat now. I am not using the sheaves in the 72-36 car, preferring to attach two Harken 083 single bullet blocks with becket to the bails on car with 1/4 inch D shackles.. This is a non swiveling block to prevent the control line from twisting. This improves the angle as the car is pulled towards the ends of the track - compared to the horizontal sheaves mounted on the car itself.
I added a Johnson pulpit anchor to each stanchion at the end of the track (about 1 1/2 inch above same part used for the genoa turning block) and aimed them towards the tiller post. I then attached a Ronstan RF40520 fiddle (with swivel and adjustable cam cleat) to each pulpit anchor. I used about 32 feet of Stayset 5/16 line to make one continuous control line.
If anyone has an idea for an article for this section, please send it to me at CaptRon@optonline.net.
Ron Marcuse “Tri-Power” #359