Hello from steamy Miami. I'm planning on having the option of running the main halyard to the cockpit (when needed...mainly when I solo with my five year old) for safety reasons, i.e. to be able to release it quickly. I seem to recall photos from the old website re running the halyard thru some blocks and a stopper. Where can I find those photos? Also, how does one remove the liner from the cabin when putting in new hardware on top of the cabin?
Also, I'm having a heck of a time rolling in my screecher, even after making adjustments per discussions with Will. One local rigger is suggesting putting a two-part pulley system between the top of the screecher and the mast with the idea of tensioning the screecher wire to the proper angle. The rigger states that in addition to obviously making the tensioning of the screecher halyard easier it will also take significant pressure off of the halyard as it enters the mast thereby somewhat mitigating one of the primary break points. Comments?
Thanks...Tropical
main halyard...screecher
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philipadams
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Dan
main halyard...screecher
Phil—
You're probably thinking of the photos I posted...since I have the halyards led aft on my boat. You can see photos and read more about it at my blog.
You're probably thinking of the photos I posted...since I have the halyards led aft on my boat. You can see photos and read more about it at my blog.
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Ron
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main halyard...screecher
Phil -
What sort of problems are you having with rolling in the screecher?
If it takes a lot of force to do it, especially in higher wind, you should fall off and blanket the screecher with the main. In 15 knots of wind I find it almost impossible to do it also, and have to blanket the sail. I do the same thing with the genoa as well, especially if I want it to roll up as tight as possible. Heading into the wind with either sail won't work as well either. I try to blanket both sails almost all of the time to get the roll as tight and smooth as possible.
If it doesn't roll in all of the way, then it's probably the number of turns you have on the drum. There should be maybe 4 turns left on the drum when the sail is furled.
If the furling line tends to gather at the top or bottom of the drum and occasionally jams, then the angle of the line as it approaches the drum may not be close to 90 degrees. It's got to roll up smoothly on the drum, and that means that you should also leave some pressure on the sheet(s) as you do it, and on the furling line when you pull a sheet to let it out. This goes for the genoa as well. You may have to move turning blocks around to get the 90 degrees. The screecher furling line also had to go thru the eye that's mounted perhaps 5 inches from the large bail on the bow sprit.
The screecher halyard has to be reasonably tight, and that means that you will have to use the winch to do it. But don't grind that hard - I try to tighten it to the point where the head stay (and genoa) start to sag just a little, then back off maybe 2 - 3 inches. Installing a pair of Lewmar
clutches (same as on the ama and trampoline control lines) on the mast will help here. Many of us have done this already.
The wire luff on the screecher also has to be pre-loaded with maybe 3 turns before you attach the pendent to the drum, but that will effect rolling out the sail more than not getting it back in. There could be too many turns though.
I've never had even a slight problem with the screecher. It rolls out easily all of the way, and I can get it back in with litle effort or drama.
What sort of problems are you having with rolling in the screecher?
If it takes a lot of force to do it, especially in higher wind, you should fall off and blanket the screecher with the main. In 15 knots of wind I find it almost impossible to do it also, and have to blanket the sail. I do the same thing with the genoa as well, especially if I want it to roll up as tight as possible. Heading into the wind with either sail won't work as well either. I try to blanket both sails almost all of the time to get the roll as tight and smooth as possible.
If it doesn't roll in all of the way, then it's probably the number of turns you have on the drum. There should be maybe 4 turns left on the drum when the sail is furled.
If the furling line tends to gather at the top or bottom of the drum and occasionally jams, then the angle of the line as it approaches the drum may not be close to 90 degrees. It's got to roll up smoothly on the drum, and that means that you should also leave some pressure on the sheet(s) as you do it, and on the furling line when you pull a sheet to let it out. This goes for the genoa as well. You may have to move turning blocks around to get the 90 degrees. The screecher furling line also had to go thru the eye that's mounted perhaps 5 inches from the large bail on the bow sprit.
The screecher halyard has to be reasonably tight, and that means that you will have to use the winch to do it. But don't grind that hard - I try to tighten it to the point where the head stay (and genoa) start to sag just a little, then back off maybe 2 - 3 inches. Installing a pair of Lewmar
clutches (same as on the ama and trampoline control lines) on the mast will help here. Many of us have done this already.
The wire luff on the screecher also has to be pre-loaded with maybe 3 turns before you attach the pendent to the drum, but that will effect rolling out the sail more than not getting it back in. There could be too many turns though.
I've never had even a slight problem with the screecher. It rolls out easily all of the way, and I can get it back in with litle effort or drama.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
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philipadams
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main halyard...screecher
Thanks Dan and Ron for the responses...
Dan, nice setup per your blog...how did you remove the interior liner to put in the clutches?
Ron, sorry if I didn't explain it well before, but I'm having a very hard time rolling in the screacher (it rolls out easily) even when blanketed by the main. I've led the screacher halyard back to the self-tailing winch just to play with different tensions, and the only tension that seems to work is very tight...then the sreacher rolls in easily. That's why the local rigger is suggesting the two-part purchase system as noted in my previous post. FYI: Will suggests bringing in the sprit half-way, then tensioning the screacher halyard as much as possible by hand, then pulling at the sprit as much as possible by hand with the pulley in the anchor locker, and playing with the backstay to see if it needs more tension...this does not work on my boat (does not help rolling in the screacher), plus it leaves me with a 4-foot sprit that's only extended about three feet. I'd like to get the screacher working since it's so much fun to sail with (particularly in our light summer winds here) and works well from 60 degrees to a deep reach.
I have some other questions but I'll try to post them in the proper categories...Philip (Tropical)
Thanks...Philip
Dan, nice setup per your blog...how did you remove the interior liner to put in the clutches?
Ron, sorry if I didn't explain it well before, but I'm having a very hard time rolling in the screacher (it rolls out easily) even when blanketed by the main. I've led the screacher halyard back to the self-tailing winch just to play with different tensions, and the only tension that seems to work is very tight...then the sreacher rolls in easily. That's why the local rigger is suggesting the two-part purchase system as noted in my previous post. FYI: Will suggests bringing in the sprit half-way, then tensioning the screacher halyard as much as possible by hand, then pulling at the sprit as much as possible by hand with the pulley in the anchor locker, and playing with the backstay to see if it needs more tension...this does not work on my boat (does not help rolling in the screacher), plus it leaves me with a 4-foot sprit that's only extended about three feet. I'd like to get the screacher working since it's so much fun to sail with (particularly in our light summer winds here) and works well from 60 degrees to a deep reach.
I have some other questions but I'll try to post them in the proper categories...Philip (Tropical)
Thanks...Philip
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Ron
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main halyard...screecher
Philip -
In theory, we have the same boat with the same Behrig sail, sprit, mast, furling setup, etc. Mine is easy to roll out or roll in (as long as you fall off and blanket the sail when the wind picks up). Something has to be different (or wrong) on yours. Is the top swivel not rotating when you pull on the furling line? Maybe aim a pair of binnoculars up there the next time you pull it in?
I would re-check everything I mentioned above before I went to installing another line at the top of the mast to tension the top of the sail. You don't really need that. There's got to be 30 or more 28's running around without it.
In theory, we have the same boat with the same Behrig sail, sprit, mast, furling setup, etc. Mine is easy to roll out or roll in (as long as you fall off and blanket the sail when the wind picks up). Something has to be different (or wrong) on yours. Is the top swivel not rotating when you pull on the furling line? Maybe aim a pair of binnoculars up there the next time you pull it in?
I would re-check everything I mentioned above before I went to installing another line at the top of the mast to tension the top of the sail. You don't really need that. There's got to be 30 or more 28's running around without it.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
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Dan
main halyard...screecher
Phillip—
I cut through the cloth liner. I am working on replacing the cloth liner with one made up of 1.5 mm or 3 mm marine plywood instead. This would allow me to insulate above the overhead, as well as put in proper access panels to get to deck mounted hardware. It also will give me more options with mounting things like cabin lights and running wire. That’s going to be my primary project for this winter.
I cut through the cloth liner. I am working on replacing the cloth liner with one made up of 1.5 mm or 3 mm marine plywood instead. This would allow me to insulate above the overhead, as well as put in proper access panels to get to deck mounted hardware. It also will give me more options with mounting things like cabin lights and running wire. That’s going to be my primary project for this winter.
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trashpad
main halyard...screecher
Ron wrote:Is the top swivel not rotating when you pull on the furling line? Maybe aim a pair of binnoculars up there the next time you pull it in?
I went out today and the winds were light so i decided it was time to work out the bugs with the screecher again. It came down to the swivel not rotating under load. The sail did not unfurl so I slacked the halyard a bit and noticed that when the sail unrolled the swivel did too! I brought the swivel home to work on it.
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trashpad
main halyard...screecher
I sent the swivel back to Schaefer marine to have it checked out. I found out that the Schaefer system comes with a five year warranty. A very helpful Carol hand carried my swivel to the GM there and after a quick check out they are going to send me a new unit. Nice company that stands behind their products. After I get it installed I will let you know if it fixes the screecher problem.
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Ron
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main halyard...screecher
Kurt -
The upper swivel has ball bearings as I recall. It should turn VERY easily. Not sure how your unit could have failed. It's a very simple design.
The upper swivel has ball bearings as I recall. It should turn VERY easily. Not sure how your unit could have failed. It's a very simple design.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
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trashpad
main halyard...screecher
That is what I thought too. When the swivel is in hand it spins freely but locks up under load. This could be all my screecher problems.
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