Andrew
I would put your questions under Telstar 26 + 8M and you might get more response.
Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
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isaacsman
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petrel
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Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
Andrew,
I am also an owner of an 8m Telstar light weight model sail number 194 built in 1979 in the U.K. and shipped to the U.S.A.
I just now composed a lengthy reply post only to have it disappear when I clicked preview - damn! Unfortunately I will have to recompose it and post again later. Welcome to Telstars. You have a unique and very capable Telstar. A very good performer.
Will write more soon
Geoffrey
I am also an owner of an 8m Telstar light weight model sail number 194 built in 1979 in the U.K. and shipped to the U.S.A.
I just now composed a lengthy reply post only to have it disappear when I clicked preview - damn! Unfortunately I will have to recompose it and post again later. Welcome to Telstars. You have a unique and very capable Telstar. A very good performer.
Will write more soon
Geoffrey
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luigisante
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Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
Don't know if you've seen this site. http://home.earthlink.net/~smercc/ Joe Sidzuski's email is on there. He has a lot of tuning and sailing pointers already written up if I recall. I think he's on a Catamaran in the South Pacific at the moment, but he checks email from time to time.
He and Geoffrey are great sources of information.
Lou
He and Geoffrey are great sources of information.
Lou
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petrel
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Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
Andrew,
I also had to replace the original strut brackets that had become badly rusted. At the same time I replaced the hinges using stainless steel for everything. Your price of 280 pounds for the four brackets seems quite reasonable.
Obviously the length of the struts effects the depth of the amas in water and the geometry of the boat. So you may want to check your boat once it is in the water to ensure that the it floats evenly about its centerline. If not wait until it is out of the water again and adjust with shims between the struts and brackets. As for the bolted struts vs pinned. The downside for bolted is they take more time for assembly and disassembly. Their advantage is they make a solid connection. I sailed in a Telstar with pinned struts and in a seaway and they clanked and banged most disturbingly. So I prefer the bolted.
Ah, the problem with rain leaking into the outer hulls when the boat is onshore. I think it is either caused by a poor deck to hull joint or leaky rubstrake screws. And like your father in law I also drilled holes in the bottom of both hulls to drain them. But I built up the inside with epoxy, drilled and tapped the holes and put stainless steel screws in them. I used countersunk screws countersinking the outside of the hull so they were smooth to the surface. The screws were installed with silicone sealant and a nut screwed on the inside to prevent them from coming out.
As I said in my previous email you have a unique boat. Unique in that it is lighter than other Telstars. Which means that if you keep the boat lightly loaded, and the hulls clean and smooth you will find your boat to be a real performer and a delight to sail. In my opinion lightly loaded and smooth hulls should be the mantra of all multihull sailors.
As for sailing tips these boat are almost like a dingy to sail and quite forgiving. To start take the boat out in smooth seas and light airs with a small jib and main - maybe even reefed and get a feel for the boat. You will be sailing slowly but at about the speed of equivalent length monohull anyway. When tacking in light airs the boat needs to be "driven through a tack" much like you would drive a car around a corner. This is because your boat does not have the inertia of a ballasted monohull and it has more windage. In higher winds this is not necessary. Typically the rudder does not have to be full over when tacking - more like 45 degrees. Reefing, I have a "rule of thumb as when to reef". When the rubstrake at the rear of the leeward hull is constantly near or in the water REEF. In doing so you will be rewarded by a more upright and sea kindly boat and most likely an increase in speed. The latter is counterintuitive, but fun to experience. It is also a lesson on the drag created by the leeward hull when the boat is over canvassed. Interesting stuff!
Good luck
Geoffrey
I also had to replace the original strut brackets that had become badly rusted. At the same time I replaced the hinges using stainless steel for everything. Your price of 280 pounds for the four brackets seems quite reasonable.
Obviously the length of the struts effects the depth of the amas in water and the geometry of the boat. So you may want to check your boat once it is in the water to ensure that the it floats evenly about its centerline. If not wait until it is out of the water again and adjust with shims between the struts and brackets. As for the bolted struts vs pinned. The downside for bolted is they take more time for assembly and disassembly. Their advantage is they make a solid connection. I sailed in a Telstar with pinned struts and in a seaway and they clanked and banged most disturbingly. So I prefer the bolted.
Ah, the problem with rain leaking into the outer hulls when the boat is onshore. I think it is either caused by a poor deck to hull joint or leaky rubstrake screws. And like your father in law I also drilled holes in the bottom of both hulls to drain them. But I built up the inside with epoxy, drilled and tapped the holes and put stainless steel screws in them. I used countersunk screws countersinking the outside of the hull so they were smooth to the surface. The screws were installed with silicone sealant and a nut screwed on the inside to prevent them from coming out.
As I said in my previous email you have a unique boat. Unique in that it is lighter than other Telstars. Which means that if you keep the boat lightly loaded, and the hulls clean and smooth you will find your boat to be a real performer and a delight to sail. In my opinion lightly loaded and smooth hulls should be the mantra of all multihull sailors.
As for sailing tips these boat are almost like a dingy to sail and quite forgiving. To start take the boat out in smooth seas and light airs with a small jib and main - maybe even reefed and get a feel for the boat. You will be sailing slowly but at about the speed of equivalent length monohull anyway. When tacking in light airs the boat needs to be "driven through a tack" much like you would drive a car around a corner. This is because your boat does not have the inertia of a ballasted monohull and it has more windage. In higher winds this is not necessary. Typically the rudder does not have to be full over when tacking - more like 45 degrees. Reefing, I have a "rule of thumb as when to reef". When the rubstrake at the rear of the leeward hull is constantly near or in the water REEF. In doing so you will be rewarded by a more upright and sea kindly boat and most likely an increase in speed. The latter is counterintuitive, but fun to experience. It is also a lesson on the drag created by the leeward hull when the boat is over canvassed. Interesting stuff!
Good luck
Geoffrey
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petrel
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Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
Moderator,
Maybe this thread should be moved to Telstar 26 and 8m
Thanks
Geoffrey
Maybe this thread should be moved to Telstar 26 and 8m
Thanks
Geoffrey
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isaacsman
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Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
Andrew
This link is from the 26 + 8M members info section - Tony Smith's sailing recommendations:
http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B7Q ... NjYw&hl=en
Mike
This link is from the 26 + 8M members info section - Tony Smith's sailing recommendations:
http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B7Q ... NjYw&hl=en
Mike
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Ron
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Telstar 8m advice - New to sailing
As suggested, I moved this topic to the 26 / 8M section.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
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