ajaxpc wrote:I didn't buy the engine, but obviously bought too much of the story ...
One of the the nice thing about the internet is that you can check all of these "facts" in about 2 seconds.
I'd say that any of the 9.9's would be a decent motor for the 26 or 8M. You can always add a 4 blade high thrust prop later. Solas makes them for virtually every 9.9 made for about $70. Pitch should probably be in the 6.5 to 7.5 range for a sailboat.
many thanks for all the information, I have just bought a 9.9 high thrust yamaha, with electric start second hand that has only been used for two hours .
I would have bought an extra long leg but the availability and £1k off the new price was too much of a temptation. I hope that it does the job !
any one fancy a cheap 15 hp two stroke, soon to be apearing on an e bay website near you ?
John
I recall that the 9.9, 20 and 50 hp Honda's weigh about 90,110, and 225 respectively. The 90 without electric start may be slightly less. Considering they are all mounted on what is the equivalent of a transom (and on the port side of the boat), these weight differences could make a difference in the fore/aft and port/starboard trim of the boat. Using the 28 as an example, I believe a few of the owners with the 50 wound up moving the bottom paint line up a few inches. There was no need to do this with the 20 (unless you put some really heavy batteries back there).
My 20 hp Honda (with a high thrust 4 blade prop) can drive the boat up to nearly 9 knots, and cruise at 7. The prop helped here - tried a Honda 7 5/8 pitch and a Solas 7 pitch. Both had an oversize 10 inch blade diamater. The Solas seems to do a little better and is back on the boat now. The stock 4 blade 9 1/2 inch x 10 pitch prop was definitely wrong for a sailboat.
Ron wrote:IConsidering they are all mounted on what is the equivalent of a transom (and on the port side of the boat), these weight differences could make a difference in the fore/aft and port/starboard trim of the boat.
Of course this is where the 26's and 8M's with the modified extended sterns could possibly handle the added weight because of the increased bouyancy due to the extensions.
I have a 26 MK1 with a 9.9 high thrust. This pushes the boat about 7kts max and around 6kts at cruise. The real problem is at higher speeds under engine power or sail the boat will squat and start to drag the stern. The drag limits the speed. I don't think weight is the biggest issue, I think hull shape is the culprit. This is the reason many people have considered the stern extension. I don't know how much HP would be required to push the boat faster than about 9 kts but I think it would take more than 40hp. It sure would be fun to try!
sandeb2 wrote:i can see the stern extension helping squat under sail with weight of people and motor and fuel at back. in displacement mode like under sail in most winds, getting the flatter part of the transom in the water makes a big difference. note how big and round airplane wing fronts are and how knife edge the aft edge of the wing is. contrary to popular belief, the shape of the stern is much more important to efficiency than the shape of the bow. a flat transom under water in displacement mode creates a vortex.
i do know that when hull length to beam ratio exceeds generally 11:1, the rules change for very narrow hulls and it takes less hp to exceed hull speed. the telstar's 8:1 ratio for the main hull is close to that.
the fact that 50 hp and i think i heard 40 hp on the telstar 28 lets it get above hull speed makes me think that might work on the 26 or 8m. i hope i will hear if someone tried that.
For those who do not remember I have a different boat, albiet a trimaran. The fuel tanks for my trimaran are located in the amas, about mid/stern location. My water tanks are in the main hull. I will be doing a weight and balance for the entire boat. I think sandeb2's idea has merit and doing a weight and balance with consideration of relocation of fuel in the 26's and 8M's could be interesting. The fuel tanks are portable anyway. So they could be removed during trailering and such and replaced during sailing. The point being getting he boat sitting flatter, less stern low as well as considering how to shape the bottom of the stern extension if one is done.
Great to hear your progress, looking forward to the photos. The only work I have done on Native Dancer was to secure the retaining wall I built to prevent erosion. 6000lbs of rock shovel by shovel. Then I had my knee surgery. Still in PT, should be good to go in about 4 weeks. This is pretty much what I expected would occur before Spring, when I shall start the repairs. I put a couple photos of the retaining wall, it is about 50' long and 5' deep. There are 3 Dead Men, buried under boat and secured to the wall to insure she cannot be easily washed away. Rainy season here in now through February.
Ditch running parallel to boat needing erosion protection start.JPG (125.56 KiB) Viewed 225 times
Completed retaining wall from bow of boat on the hard finished 2.JPG (180.33 KiB) Viewed 225 times
Completed retaining wall from stern of boat on the hard. You can see the bayou in the distance that she will be craned into when completed. finished 1.JPG (161.08 KiB) Viewed 225 times
Regarding the outboard while I have no practical knowledge with that boat I would go with the 25" shaft length and the power tilt as you mentioned, electric start I think would be a given if you have the power tilt.