Rudder Rebuild

[Pat Ross]

Attached photos of my rudder. I intend to rebuild both the Tiller and rudder.

1.In photo number 1 you can see that the aft part of the tiller, the component holding the wooden rudder. It is missing some type of covering on the aft part. I am not sure exactly what goes there and what it is made of and its function.

aft view holder.jpg (33.75 KiB) Viewed 130 times



2. The next two photos are of the Rudder itself. I am actually going to replace this rather than rebuild. My measurements on this rudder are 48 inches on the forward leading edge length top to bottom and 44 inches on the aft edge.

Rudder.jpg (35.41 KiB) Viewed 130 times



3, The thickness of the rudder seems to be about 1 1/4 inches.

aft Rudder.jpg (33.66 KiB) Viewed 130 times



I am looking for suggestions, feedback and particularly measurements from other 8M or earlier models. I am wondering if a modification to its shape as well as size is a consideration. Or to simply make a new rudder using these measurements as a guide. I ask these questions since this particular rudder and tiller are in such bad shape one has to wonder how many times it was modified and by whom.

Pat

[luigisante]

I think I have what you need. I have a paper template of the rudder somewhere. I'll go looking. If not, I can trace mine. I cut strips of mahogany and epoxied them together and cut out the shape from a template. All I need to do is the final shaping this winter. I'll post some pictures when I get the chance. Joe S. has a video he did of him using a compound miter saw to shape his rudder. I think its easier to shape the edges with a plane and belt sander.

Your tiller/rudder casing is kind of a hatchet job. The original boat had a closed fiberglass rudder box and the tiller that bolted on top. The top part of the tiller had pins that controled the vertical settings for the rudder. The rudder box held the rudder at a specific angle. It looks like your case was modified to kick up. I think you'll be rebuilding the whole thing.

Whatever that thing that is supposto be a rudder is, it is nothing like the original one used by Tony Smith. I'll photograph my rudder box and tiller for you and show you how they go together.

If that doesn't work for you, I have an old F27 kickup rudder that was given to me by a telstar owner (Chewackko I think) who had used it on his boat. It requires some gudgoen modification but it will do the trick and it is in great shape. I forget where I put it but am sure I can find it with a small bit fo effort. Maybe i'll photo that too.

Lou G

[Pat Ross]

Thanks Lou, any measurements would be appreciated. I do have Joe's video but I don't think he gives measurements, I'll review it. I was thinking of using plywood, epoxy and fiberglass to build the new rudder.

Pat

[luigisante]

The bonding of mahogany strips is fairly easy to do and, IMHO, gives a far superior result from appearance and strength. Plywood will be hard to shape I fear.

Anyway, I think It's the rudder case that will give you fits. One of the first things I am doing after launching my boat next year is to try designing a metal tube housing like the one on the boat Alex posted with the extended hull. That looked light, functional and beautiful.

Lou

P.S. BTW, did you actually sail the boat with that, so called, rudder?

[JoeWalling]

Hi Pat

Not sure how much of a hurry you are in. In the next month or so, I'm going to lift out and have the stern extension done. After that, I will not need my existing rudder casing which is in v good condition and was strengthened by the previous owner. You are welcome to it for free if you want to pick up the postage costs. If you are interested I'll post some pics when I haul out and will get an idea of shipping costs.

Joe

[ajaxpc]

Here are a couple of photos of my rudder -

http://telstartrina.blogspot.com/search?q=rudder

They'll give you the general idea, though no use for measurements.

I have a spare case (you can see it in the photos), but it's in Scotland ... The rudder itself is probably easier to make than the case. The slightly strange shaping allows the rudder to rock backwards - it isn't meant to be dropped the whole way into the slot - to give some balance.

When you're sailing, the top foot or so of the board is still sticking out of the top of the case. It looks odd, but it's what I was told when I bought the boat and it works well. If you put the rudder the whole way down, the steering becomes heavy.

As an aside - and to link with another thread - the person who dropped off the spare rudder was Rod Chisholm, who made the beautiful stern extension and rudder fabrication on his 8 metre 'Lapwing'.

(See: http://www.dundee.ac.uk/design/profiles ... r-trimaran)

[luigisante]

Well, I guess that solves your rudder case problem. : )

Lou

[Pat Ross]

Joe, thank you for the offer but I think I can rebuild my rudder box OK. Getting the photos such as Alex has on his site is helpful, thanks for the links Alex and the description. I need a photo of the trailing edge, aft view, of the box. I would appreciate the measurements of others rudders. The shape of Alex's is definitely different than mine.

Pat

[luigisante]

Ok Pat, I dug out my tiller, rudder casing (box) and the rudder that i put together but haven't shaped yet. I'll post pics of all of them here and you let me know what needs to be measured. Let's start with my rudder project. Here is a picture of an 8 meter rudder.

8 meter rudder Pat1.jpg (3.15 KiB) Viewed 78 times

. It is identical to the Mark 1 & 2 rudder. Here is my copy of the rudder made from mahogony strips epoxied together with 404 adhesive compound. It is ready for sanding and shaping.

Rudder project Pat6.jpg (11.53 KiB) Viewed 78 times



The next photo is the rudder case (side view)

Rudder case side view Pat3.jpg (5.75 KiB) Viewed 78 times

The thing to note here is the curve on the aftward end of the case. That curve positions the rudder as it is moved vertically downward into the case, positioning it so that it is balanced while under sail. That curve is critical to the operation of the case. You will have to duplicate it in your rebuild. The rest of the photos I will attach in a new post.

Lou

[luigisante]

The nect pic is the rudder case from the top. Note the contour that needs to be transmitted to the rudder so it moves properly through the case.

top view of rudder case. Pat2.jpg (7.51 KiB) Viewed 77 times

. The next is the tiller from the top view where it fits on the top of the rudder case.

top view of tiller Pat5.jpg (5.59 KiB) Viewed 77 times

Note the same contour so that the rudder can pass through the tiller and the rudder case as one unit. Finally, there is the side view of the tiller.

side view of tiller IMG00222.jpg (153.48 KiB) Viewed 77 times

.

That about does it. Take a look at the photos and let me know what you want measured. I could just trace everything on kraft paper and send you the tracings. I'm not sure how you can recreate the complex curves via measurements alone. Anyway, let me know what you want me to do and I am at your disposal. BTW, I think you crazy if you don't take the rudder case that was offered. It would make the refitting so much easier. IMHO.

Lou