Restoring the Mark 1 to Jet power.

[Ron]

Alex -

Dan must have 1,500 pounds of stuff on this boat, including 2 big (golf cart?) batteries. His "list" may be the result of numerous things, but the motor does contribute. As I recall, the Honda 20 weighs about 110 pounds and the Honda 50 about 220. With this weight sitting on the port side in it's lifting box it will cause some minor tilting in that direction.

[ajaxpc]

Ron -

Ouch. I thought I was carrying a lot of gear!

I installed a Yamaha 9.9 HT last year, and thought it was pretty heavy ...

I put the controls on the SB side to balance up, so I have right hand drive. (!)

Alex.

[Ron]

Alex -

You guys always seem to drive on the wrong side of the road from the wrong side of the vehicle. Why should your boat be different?

[Dan]

Ron—

While I do have quite a bit of gear and equipment aboard the Pretty Gee, I don't think it is quite 1500 lbs yet.. Yes, my boat is probably the heaviest of all the Telstar 28s currently out there, and the two T105 batteries (soon to be four) are part of the issue, but the list has been there since day one. I believe it is primarily due to the refrigerator and the outboard—both of which are mounted outboard on the port side. The batteries are to the starboard side of the centerline, but almost on the centerline, so don't have as much effect on the boat's trim as the refrigerator or outboard.

Alex -

Dan must have 1,500 pounds of stuff on this boat, including 2 big (golf cart?) batteries. His "list" may be the result of numerous things, but the motor does contribute. As I recall, the Honda 20 weighs about 110 pounds and the Honda 50 about 220. With this weight sitting on the port side in it's lifting box it will cause some minor tilting in that direction.

[luigisante]

Hello all:

The Seadoo insert is in its new location and has, once again, been tabbed in place for molding (you can see the tabbing on the left). I inserted a piece of pvc pipe into the thru-hull to give me a 3-D projection of the thrust line. The thrust line looks nice and straight (at least it crosses my centering marks). I am now agonizing over the correct thrust angle. I have a very slight downward angle. I would estimate it deviates downward only 1 or 2 degrees from a line parallel to the waterline.

Thrust Angle Measurement Thrust1.jpg (7.1 KiB) Viewed 282 times



Side View - Note Tabbing Thrust2.jpg (7.64 KiB) Viewed 282 times

I have spent the past 3 mornings in my yard, sitting and stareing at the white pvc pipe while I have my coffee, wondering if I have it right.

Lou Giansante

[Pat Ross]

Great place to have coffee! Keep the photos coming. Great stuff!

Pat

[luigisante]

Latest Update:

Made some progress yesterday when I got back from Florida. After days of agonizing over the angle of thrust of the jet pump, decided to bite the bullet and start the molding process. I began by drilling, countersinking and bolting in the waverunner assembly to the hull.

Countersunk thru-bolt holding assembly to hull. th_Mold4.jpg (2.92 KiB) Viewed 253 times

Then I filled the bolt holes in with West 407 low density fairing compound to seal the bolt holes and make the surface smooth for applying glass cloth to the outside.

West 407 low density fairing filler th_Mold6.jpg (2.39 KiB) Viewed 253 times

Finally, I started glassing with biaxle tape and cloth from the inside affixing the inserrt to the hull.

glassing the insert th_Mold9.jpg (3.26 KiB) Viewed 253 times



The weather cooperated for a time, but soon the rain came and it was time to fasten the cover back in place. I should see real progess from now on, with each step making the assembly look more like it was installed at the factory. I can't wait to put the pump in place so you can all see what it will look like when it's installed. Now, if I can only figure out how to make the rooster tail get past the rudder intact. : )

Lou Giansante

[luigisante]

Hi all:

Weekend weather was acceptable. Most of the 1st layer of glass is done. The only gap left is the transition area between the telstar hull and the waverunner. Making a smooth transition will take a bit of artistic talent (in short supply here).

Transition area looking forward Jet10s.jpg (11.9 KiB) Viewed 227 times

.
Because of all the compound curves and angles associated with the molding, I bonded the edges of the cloth first and stiffened the open areas with epoxy only after the edges were dry and cured.

staged whetting out of the inside glass Jet13s.jpg (6.81 KiB) Viewed 227 times

I formed a slight 4" bubble on the starboard side to accomodate the exhaust flange. I think I will be able to fair this in so that it is undeciferable from the outside.
The glass inside will act as backing to mold in the transition areas with 407 fairing compound. Then glass will be added from the outside to lock in the insert. Then the edges of the glass will be feathered with fairing compound.

Outside ready for fairing - glass - fairing Jet15s.jpg (7.49 KiB) Viewed 227 times



The project is moving along nicely, even with the weather delays.

Lou Giansante

[luigisante]

I forgot how tedious this phase of fiberglass work is. The molding is firmly in place. The interior glassing is roughed in and needs only 4 or 5 layers of glass on top. There was a small gap created at a few locations in the interior of the engine compartment from the attachment of the molding to the hull. I filled these gaps with expandable foam which I injected from the outside.

Foaming the port side. Foam(s).jpg (11.16 KiB) Viewed 203 times



Foaming the starboard side. Foam2(s).jpg (12.15 KiB) Viewed 203 times


Any interior glass which was exposed to the outside has been covered with a coating of 407 compound and sanded to get ready for contouring, to blend the molding with the hull. That process is going to involve custom filling spaces with pieces of fiberglass cloth cut to shape and glassed in layers, to crate a proper contour asthetically and to keep the laminar flow on the hull as smooth as possible. A few more weeks of good weather and I should have this finished and ready for barrier coat. Then, I can move the project into the cabin and boat systems for the winter and begin to start planning the trip to the boatyard in the spring to begin rigging the standing and running rigging.

Lou

[luigisante]

Hello all:

It looks like the home stretch on molding the Seadoo insert. The rear transition areas of the molding are roughed in with fairing compound. The photos are before final sanding. The rear areas will probably need a finish layer of fairing compound to remove any imperfections. Any remaining issues can be addressed when the 4 layers of West/Graphite/Barrier Coat are applied. Here is the port side of the rear insert.

Port side of faired insert. Stretch3.jpg (3.67 KiB) Viewed 180 times

and here is a shot under morning light which I hope shows the transition curves better (sorry for the sideways picture but I can't get this one to rotate on photobucket). I think I have the transition correct now.

Port fairing showing curves in the transition areas Stretch2.jpg (3.26 KiB) Viewed 180 times

I am still working on the foresection of the insert, which I have been building up with alternating roving and 9 oz. glass. It is now fairly uniform across the hull and ready for 407 compound.

Foresection ready for fairing Strech.jpg (3.32 KiB) Viewed 180 times



A couple more weeks of good weather and I will be working on the cabin rebuild. I can't wait to get past this glass work. The final molding and fairing have been tedious. If I have learned anything, however, in this rebuild, it is that you can't rush glass work. You have to take incremental steps or your finished product looks like crap.

Lou G.