International Telstar Owners Association

Does anyone have a recommendation for replacing the rudder and control lines. I am thinking of replacing with Dyneema. Does anyone have any idea what type and size of lines would work. Any recommendations for places to buy it? Thanks, Paul

I replaced the lower rudder control lines with dyneema about 6 years ago. It's much stronger, abrasion resistant, and handles water and sun better. Uppers are still stock. Not home now, but I think I used 5/16. You can buy it at just about any marine store.

I did the same thing that Ron did, and it was 5/16. I bought mine at West Marine. The upper system remains unchanged in mine as well. Has worked well for about 5 years now. The entire system of raising and lowering the rudder is a bit off. I am determined to rework the system at some point and make it more effective, accessible, and less prone to dysfunction. If anyone has been able to find and effective rework for the entire system, I would love to hear about it.

wooden wrote:I did the same thing that Ron did, and it was 5/16. I bought mine at West Marine. The upper system remains unchanged in mine as well. Has worked well for about 5 years now. The entire system of raising and lowering the rudder is a bit off. I am determined to rework the system at some point and make it more effective, accessible, and less prone to dysfunction. If anyone has been able to find and effective rework for the entire system, I would love to hear about it.

I just replaced the lines on mine, but with 3/8". I certainly can see where 5/16 would me much better, so looks like its time to tear it apart again!! I replaced the upper lines as well.....not to much work if your are a skinny dwarfed monkey with long arms. For me it was a bit of a challenge, but once I figured the system out I was able to get it done.

I have my rudder apart right now. After reading on this site the problems people have had with noisy "rudder slap" I discovered the pivot pin on mine was worn as well as the sides that ride against the slot in the hull. I intend on fiber glassing a half inch tube into the pivot area to tighten it up and adding fiberglass to the sides of the wear surface where the rudder pivot rides in the slot....I will let you know how it turns out. PM me if anyone needs pics and I will take some as things progress.

Randy

Does anyone know how long of a line I need to replace the control line? How about the rudder lines? Thanks.

onremlop wrote:Does anyone know how long of a line I need to replace the control line? How about the rudder lines? Thanks.

I found it on here somewhere on an old post........Copied it to my computer and put it somewhere safe....its safe alright, can't find it now, but will forward it when I do!!

I used 2 15 foot lines and had some left over when I replaced mine. One black and one white for ease of identification.

They don't have the lengths, but I also found this site with a list of all the lines on a Telstar 28 if you are interested:

http://www.cajunrope.com/telestar.html


Randy

I had that issue of the rudder slapping against the fiberglass when it was in the slip. I picked up a couple fiberglass shims at Home Depot and stuck them in there and that noise stopped. Just have to remember to remove them once you are underway or you will lose them. It is a temporary fix.

I also took a piece of parachute cord and threaded it through as a messenger line in the event I was out and the rudder line broke. My thinking is that I could use that messenger line to pull a new rudder line through. I remember a few year's back talking with a guy racing his Telstar in the St. John's River (FL) Mugg Race and having his rudder line breaking. He said it was really hard to put a new one in when they were in the water bobbing around. Hopefully, this concept will work if it does happen.

I tried to work epoxy mixed with graphite powder down in to reduce the space between the rudder post and the hole in the "cassette" (not sure what to call the piece that pivots). Initially fine, but by the end of one season it seemed to have excess friction when under strong side load. I was able to work some HDPE "slick strips" into the space. Made for use on drawer slides, very slippery plastic, available in different widths. Seemed to do the job, no problem after a full season. You could try some graphite/epoxy to take up the space between the "cassette" and slot. I use a thin wedge at night, keeps the rudder quiet for sleeping.