Well, the new boat comes home next week. I was thinking I would have some time to contemplate what all needed to be purchased to bring her up to sailing form, but our local Boater's World is going out of business, and has a sale going now. Does anyone have a list of the basics they needed to add to their new boat, just so I don't overlook anything? Please add specifics where you can (line sizes, etc.). I've got two days to cash in on some potential savings.
Thanks,
Steve
New boat list
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drsm
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 7:12 pm
- Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Dan
New boat list
Steve—
A few things you’ll need/want.
Required Safety Gear:
Fire extinguishers—at least two. The Kidde Mariner 110s are sold in pairs, but I would also recommend getting a couple larger ones as well. The two small Mariners will get you USCG legal at least though.
A horn—I like the EcoHorn, which is available at a few different stores. It uses a bicycle pump to recharge the air horn. Very loud, and nice to the environment.
A bell—at least in Massachusetts, all boats over 26' are required to have a bell. It doesn’t have to be mounted, just aboard.
PFDs—You’ll need at least as many foam-filled PFDs as the number of people you’re generally going to be sailing with. The Type III vests are more comfortable than the Type I or Type II horse collars, but the Type I/II will turn an unconscious person face up and have more flotation IIRC. For real comfort, you’ll want to get inflatable Type V PFDs with an integrated harness. The ones with the hydrostatic releases are the best, but fairly expensive still. Be aware that there are counterfeit hydrostatic releases on the market currently—so you have to be careful if you buy them.
Be aware that most of the Type V PFDs with integrated harnesses are designed for people 5' 8" or taller, and if you’ve got people shorter than that, you’ll want to get ones designed for them—Spinlock makes two that are pretty good for short people, but IIRC, they’re only CE and SOLAS approved, not USCG. You’ll also need a Type IV throwable PFD. A LifeSling is a good addition to any boat. If you’re boating on the ocean, adding whistles, rigging knives and strobes/lights to each PFD is probably a good idea.
Distress Signals—I highly recommend getting SOLAS approved flares, which are significantly brighter and longer lasting than USCG-approved flares and generally are USCG approved as well. The SOLAS flares are also safer to use IMHO.
Other Gear:
Signage—You’ll want to get a MARPOL placard and a OIL DISCHARGE placard. These are required by law and not having them can result in a nasty fine. Boater’s World has both for about $4 in plastic in the required size.
Fenders—You’ll probably want larger fender than what the boat comes with. Six 8.5" diameter ones are about right for the boat.
Dock Lines—You’ll probably want longer and slightly heavier docklines for the boat. I recommend getting at least four 1/2" x 15' and four 1/2" x 30' docklines. Three-strand lines work better with rough pilings and such, but double braid are usually slightly stronger, so it is a trade off.
Chafe Protection—You’ll probably want to get some decent chafe protection for dock/anchor lines. The best ones are the woven ones, since they allow water to penetrate and cool/lubricate the line, preventing one of the major cause of dock line failures after chafe—friction induced heat melting. Once good source of chafe protection is to get 1" tubular webbing from REI or EMS and cut it into 2' lengths and run the docklines through it. Tie it in place using some 1/8" line.
Line—You’ll probably want to pick up some extra line in various diameters. Some 5/16" line is good for fender lines and other general tasks. 3-6mm (1/8-1/4") line is good for messenger lines and pulling wire and such.
Anchor—I’d highly recommend getting a better anchor than the 13 lb. Danforth that comes with the boat. The Danforth is a fine lunch hook or stern anchor, but isn’t a good choice in reversing tide/current situations. At a minimum, if you’re planning on anchoring out overnight, I’d recommend getting a Delta FastSet 22 lb. anchor with 30' of 5/16" G43 High-Test chain and 150-250' of 5/8" nylon—preferably octo-plait, since it flakes better and doesn’t hockle like three-strand.
Flashlights—You’ll want a bunch of water-resistant/water-proof flashlights. I like the Gerber Firecracker, which takes a single AA and runs a long time on it. They’re great little utility lights. Also, probably want one with a red-lens cover, to preserve your night vision.
Ensign—You’ll probably want an ensign (the 20x30" size is about right), and a place to mount it. I used a stainless steel flagstaff off the stern arch.
Lotion—Bug repellent and sun block are both pretty essential.
Sun Gear—A broad rimmed hat and sunglasses are also really useful. I have a Tilley hat.
Grill—I have a stern mounted BBQ grill... which gets a workout almost every time we go out. Well worth having. The Magma Newport is nice, especially with the two-clamp rail mount.
Solar Ventilator—A solar-powered ventilator is a great addition to the boat. It helps keep the cabin much cooler and drier.
Ama Retraction Lines—One of the other owners came up with this idea. You mount a single block at the bow-pulpit on each side. You run a line from the ama padeye, forward to the block and then back through furling fairleads mounted on the hand rail back to a cam cleat by the cockpit. This allows you to retract the amas without having to go forward—making single-handing the boat much simpler.
Fast pins—Getting two 3/8" fast pins to replace the bolts at the base of the mast step helps make taking the mast down simpler.
Padded Bag—Getting or making up a padded bag that can cover the furling drum makes towing and raising/dropping the mast much easier. You take the furling drum, stuff it and the furling lines into the padded bag, and then you don’t have to worry about the drum scratching the foredeck or the forward deadlight when you’re raising/lowering the mast. It also protects the drum and furling line from road dirt/dust when you’re towing the boat.
Tiller Cover—Helps protect the varnish on the tiller—worth its weight in gold.
Galley Stuff—You’ll want galley stuff, like a long-neck lighter, plates, plastic cups, nesting cookware, etc.
Navigation Tools—Having charts, parallel rule, dividers, pencils, a hand-bearing compass (like the Plastimo Iris 50), and a good pair of 7x50 binoculars are invaluable. A current copy of Eldridge or Reed’s East Coast is a good idea too.
Spare Tire—If you’re planning on trailering the boat a lot, a spare tire is a good idea. Another good idea if you’re going to be trailering a lot is getting AAA RV Plus, which can help if you have problem with the trailer.
Boat US Membership—Just remember, since you’re an ITOA member, you can get this at a discount.
Fleece Blankets—They’re great to have aboard and dry quickly if they get wet.
Cleaning Supplies—A bucket, some cleaning supplies, sponges, trashbags, etc. are handy to have aboard
First Aid Kit—A decent first aid kit is always a good thing to have aboard.
Foul Weather Gear—Good foul weather gear, with features like a high collar, inner sleeve cuffs to prevent water from entering the arms, retro-reflective tape, etc, are well worth getting. Best color is bright Yellow, then Red. Don’t get "ocean" colors like black, blue or green, since spotting an MOB in those colors is almost impossible.
A few things you’ll need/want.
Required Safety Gear:
Fire extinguishers—at least two. The Kidde Mariner 110s are sold in pairs, but I would also recommend getting a couple larger ones as well. The two small Mariners will get you USCG legal at least though.
A horn—I like the EcoHorn, which is available at a few different stores. It uses a bicycle pump to recharge the air horn. Very loud, and nice to the environment.
A bell—at least in Massachusetts, all boats over 26' are required to have a bell. It doesn’t have to be mounted, just aboard.
PFDs—You’ll need at least as many foam-filled PFDs as the number of people you’re generally going to be sailing with. The Type III vests are more comfortable than the Type I or Type II horse collars, but the Type I/II will turn an unconscious person face up and have more flotation IIRC. For real comfort, you’ll want to get inflatable Type V PFDs with an integrated harness. The ones with the hydrostatic releases are the best, but fairly expensive still. Be aware that there are counterfeit hydrostatic releases on the market currently—so you have to be careful if you buy them.
Be aware that most of the Type V PFDs with integrated harnesses are designed for people 5' 8" or taller, and if you’ve got people shorter than that, you’ll want to get ones designed for them—Spinlock makes two that are pretty good for short people, but IIRC, they’re only CE and SOLAS approved, not USCG. You’ll also need a Type IV throwable PFD. A LifeSling is a good addition to any boat. If you’re boating on the ocean, adding whistles, rigging knives and strobes/lights to each PFD is probably a good idea.
Distress Signals—I highly recommend getting SOLAS approved flares, which are significantly brighter and longer lasting than USCG-approved flares and generally are USCG approved as well. The SOLAS flares are also safer to use IMHO.
Other Gear:
Signage—You’ll want to get a MARPOL placard and a OIL DISCHARGE placard. These are required by law and not having them can result in a nasty fine. Boater’s World has both for about $4 in plastic in the required size.
Fenders—You’ll probably want larger fender than what the boat comes with. Six 8.5" diameter ones are about right for the boat.
Dock Lines—You’ll probably want longer and slightly heavier docklines for the boat. I recommend getting at least four 1/2" x 15' and four 1/2" x 30' docklines. Three-strand lines work better with rough pilings and such, but double braid are usually slightly stronger, so it is a trade off.
Chafe Protection—You’ll probably want to get some decent chafe protection for dock/anchor lines. The best ones are the woven ones, since they allow water to penetrate and cool/lubricate the line, preventing one of the major cause of dock line failures after chafe—friction induced heat melting. Once good source of chafe protection is to get 1" tubular webbing from REI or EMS and cut it into 2' lengths and run the docklines through it. Tie it in place using some 1/8" line.
Line—You’ll probably want to pick up some extra line in various diameters. Some 5/16" line is good for fender lines and other general tasks. 3-6mm (1/8-1/4") line is good for messenger lines and pulling wire and such.
Anchor—I’d highly recommend getting a better anchor than the 13 lb. Danforth that comes with the boat. The Danforth is a fine lunch hook or stern anchor, but isn’t a good choice in reversing tide/current situations. At a minimum, if you’re planning on anchoring out overnight, I’d recommend getting a Delta FastSet 22 lb. anchor with 30' of 5/16" G43 High-Test chain and 150-250' of 5/8" nylon—preferably octo-plait, since it flakes better and doesn’t hockle like three-strand.
Flashlights—You’ll want a bunch of water-resistant/water-proof flashlights. I like the Gerber Firecracker, which takes a single AA and runs a long time on it. They’re great little utility lights. Also, probably want one with a red-lens cover, to preserve your night vision.
Ensign—You’ll probably want an ensign (the 20x30" size is about right), and a place to mount it. I used a stainless steel flagstaff off the stern arch.
Lotion—Bug repellent and sun block are both pretty essential.
Sun Gear—A broad rimmed hat and sunglasses are also really useful. I have a Tilley hat.
Grill—I have a stern mounted BBQ grill... which gets a workout almost every time we go out.
Well worth having. The Magma Newport is nice, especially with the two-clamp rail mount. Solar Ventilator—A solar-powered ventilator is a great addition to the boat. It helps keep the cabin much cooler and drier.
Ama Retraction Lines—One of the other owners came up with this idea. You mount a single block at the bow-pulpit on each side. You run a line from the ama padeye, forward to the block and then back through furling fairleads mounted on the hand rail back to a cam cleat by the cockpit. This allows you to retract the amas without having to go forward—making single-handing the boat much simpler.
Fast pins—Getting two 3/8" fast pins to replace the bolts at the base of the mast step helps make taking the mast down simpler.
Padded Bag—Getting or making up a padded bag that can cover the furling drum makes towing and raising/dropping the mast much easier. You take the furling drum, stuff it and the furling lines into the padded bag, and then you don’t have to worry about the drum scratching the foredeck or the forward deadlight when you’re raising/lowering the mast. It also protects the drum and furling line from road dirt/dust when you’re towing the boat.
Tiller Cover—Helps protect the varnish on the tiller—worth its weight in gold.
Galley Stuff—You’ll want galley stuff, like a long-neck lighter, plates, plastic cups, nesting cookware, etc.
Navigation Tools—Having charts, parallel rule, dividers, pencils, a hand-bearing compass (like the Plastimo Iris 50), and a good pair of 7x50 binoculars are invaluable. A current copy of Eldridge or Reed’s East Coast is a good idea too.
Spare Tire—If you’re planning on trailering the boat a lot, a spare tire is a good idea. Another good idea if you’re going to be trailering a lot is getting AAA RV Plus, which can help if you have problem with the trailer.
Boat US Membership—Just remember, since you’re an ITOA member, you can get this at a discount.
Fleece Blankets—They’re great to have aboard and dry quickly if they get wet.
Cleaning Supplies—A bucket, some cleaning supplies, sponges, trashbags, etc. are handy to have aboard
First Aid Kit—A decent first aid kit is always a good thing to have aboard.
Foul Weather Gear—Good foul weather gear, with features like a high collar, inner sleeve cuffs to prevent water from entering the arms, retro-reflective tape, etc, are well worth getting. Best color is bright Yellow, then Red. Don’t get "ocean" colors like black, blue or green, since spotting an MOB in those colors is almost impossible.
drsm wrote:Well, the new boat comes home next week. I was thinking I would have some time to contemplate what all needed to be purchased to bring her up to sailing form, but our local Boater's World is going out of business, and has a sale going now. Does anyone have a list of the basics they needed to add to their new boat, just so I don't overlook anything? Please add specifics where you can (line sizes, etc.). I've got two days to cash in on some potential savings.
Thanks,
Steve
-
drsm
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 7:12 pm
- Location: Grand Rapids, MI
- Contact:
New boat list
Dan,
Great list! That should give me something to chew on.
Thanks,
Steve
Great list! That should give me something to chew on.
Thanks,
Steve
-
drsm
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 7:12 pm
- Location: Grand Rapids, MI
- Contact:
New boat list
Dan,At a minimum, if you’re planning on anchoring out overnight, I’d recommend getting a Delta FastSet 22 lb. anchor with 30' of 5/16" G43 High-Test chain and 150-250' of 5/8" nylon
Does that 22 lb Delta fit into the anchor locker?
Steve
-
Dan
New boat list
Steve—
Never tried it... as the Delta used to sit on the bow roller, and now there's too much stuff in the locker for me to try it and the Rocna sits on the bow roller. I'll try it next time I'm down at the boat, but IIRC, it didn't fit.
Never tried it... as the Delta used to sit on the bow roller, and now there's too much stuff in the locker for me to try it and the Rocna sits on the bow roller.
I'll try it next time I'm down at the boat, but IIRC, it didn't fit.-
gary green
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:59 am
- Contact:
New boat list
Like Dan, I keep my Delta on a bow roller I installed a couple of seasons ago. I do keep the Danforth, all anchor chain and rode including my roller-furled assymetrical spinnaker in the anchor locker. I included a picture of my anchor roller set-up. Down the road I would like to do a similar modification that Dan did on his bow.
gary g.
gary g.
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