anchoring & retrieval done solo

[Dan]

Unless there is a dire and urgent reason to move the boat, I would have to agree that it would probably be a much better idea to sit it out at anchor—especially if you have a really good anchor that you can rely upon.

What constantly amazes me is how many boats I see have undersized or inadequate ground tackle setups. Even if you’re not typically someone who anchors out overnight, a decent ground tackle setup is a necessity—as it is an important part of your safety gear aboard a small boat—not a luxury. There can be a lot of reasons you might need ground tackle, even if you don’t typically go out for more than a day sail.

A couple of examples:

1) Say your engine gives out on you and you can’t use your sails immediately for some reason. If the water is shallow enough, dropping the anchor will generally allow you to deal with the engine and/or sails and then resume your journey, without putting the boat at risk. This may be especially important in areas with strong currents, like many harbor approaches.

2) A really bad summer afternoon thunderstorm comes up, and you’re too far from the marina to make it back safely. Anchoring until the storm passes maybe the safest way to ride out the storm.

A decent ground tackle setup, like a Rocna 15 kg anchor, with 60' of 5/16" G43 high-test chain and 200' of 5/8" nylon octo-plait line is probably less than $1000. Add in a manual windlass, bow roller, chain pipe, bow chocks, rub strakes and cleats, and it is still less than $1600 all told. Takes about a weekend to install everything.

Thanks to all for your valuable input on the subject. I will work on my technique.
I guess in bad weather, if possible, it would be better to sit it out at anchor.

Rick

[jeff432]

Dan, or anyone...
As a current nonowner, in the above situation, where one is going to wait out the storm on anchor, would it ever make any sense to lower the mast to lessen the boat's profile in high wind/lightning situations?

[Dan]

I wouldn't.

First, the chances of getting hit and injured/killed by lightning while lowering the mast is probably pretty good—if the boat is likely to get struck at all.

Second, lowering the mast may actually make the boat less stable, since it does lower the boat’s roll inertia moment. This is more a factor on monohulls than on multihulls, but it is probably still a factor.

Third, the mast may provide as protective effect, since the mast is connected to the compression post, and that may provide a fairly straight path for the lightning to the water—since the small gap between the bottom of the compression post and the water inside the centerboard trunk is probably the lowest resistance path for the lightning to ground through. Lowering the mast may increase the chances of the lightning side-flashing from the chainplates, which would put anyone in the cabin at much more risk.

Finally, I think there may be a slight chance of strong winds damaging the mast in the lowering process.

Dan, or anyone...
As a current nonowner, in the above situation, where one is going to wait out the storm on anchor, would it ever make any sense to lower the mast to lessen the boat's profile in high wind/lightning situations?

[Ron]

I suppose it depends on the strength of the storm. If you're expecting something on the order of a hurricane, it would have been a good idea to get the sails off and mast down (and boat out of the water?) long BEFORE it blows in. It could be a real challenge to get the sails off and lower the mast in gale force winds, and possibly somewhat dangerous lowering the mast (for both you and the rig). And as Dan said, I don't think there is any real benefit in lowering the mast in something like this. The boat should take it.

[Dan]

If it is a named storm... things are going to be very different than if it is just summer afternoon thundersquall. For named storms, as Ron said, the boat should be ashore if at all possible with the mast down, sails and all canvas off, and if possible, indoors. Also, check to see what the specific requirements of your insurance policy for named storms is, as some policies will not cover you if you don’t take the appropriate measures.

As for regular storms, I’ve sat out quite a few on the Pretty Gee, without any real worries or problems. Things that you will want to check on are making sure the genoa sheets are wrapped at least two or three times around the genny if you’re leaving the roller furled headsail up and that both the furling lines and sheets are well cleated off and in good condition. Also, make sure the mainsail cover is wrapped as tightly as possible if you’re leaving the mainsail up. Use good chafe protection on the dock and or anchor lines. I prefer using the woven kind rather than hose, as it lets the water through to cool and lubricate the lines—heat is a common cause of failure of anchor and dock lines in a storm.

I suppose it depends on the strength of the storm. If you're expecting something on the order of a hurricane, it would have been a good idea to get the sails off and mast down (and boat out of the water?) long BEFORE it blows in. It could be a real challenge to get the sails off and lower the mast in gale force winds, and possibly somewhat dangerous lowering the mast (for both you and the rig). And as Dan said, I don't think there is any real benefit in lowering the mast in something like this. The boat should take it.

[Rickcentalonza]

Dan,
Looking at a manual windlass, I can't find anything lower in price than $1800.00.
What kind did you install? I've looked at the Muir.

Thank you,

Rick

[Ron]

Rick, Jeff, etc. -

Dan is the only one with a windlass, bow roller, and 35 pound high tech anchor. Get some other opinions first before you spend over $3,000 for this setup. You may not need it. The boat comes with an 11 pound danforth with 6 feet of chain and maybe 150 feet of line. This is on the light side, and may not work safely in some locations and conditions. My compromise was a 15 pound Delta with 20 feet of chain and about 200 feet of line - mainly because I had won it a few years ago at a Catalina Rendezvous and it was sitting in my house - never used. If I had to buy something I probably would have leaned towards a 15 to 18 pound CQR with the same rhode. I don't think a windlass or bow roller is a requirement for this setup. It might make it a drop easier, but $2,000 ??? And all of this extra weight will only slow the boat down. Dan's setup is better but not all of us need it.

[Dan]

The windlass is a Simpson-Lawrence/Lewmar Anchorman manual windlass. Unfortunately, IIRC, they were discontinued shortly after Lewmar bought out Simpson-Lawrence. They do have one for sale at Bacon Sails for $700, but is is a 3/8" BBB gypsy only model, rather than the capstan/gypsy model I bought. You can often find them at marine consignment shops. Good Old Boat magazine has a pretty thorough list of consignment shops in North America.

While I agree that my ground tackle setup is "overkill" for most people, it is designed so that the boat will basically be able to ride out even severe storm conditions in relative safety. Many of the major projects on the Pretty Gee were done to improve safety and seaworthiness in heavy conditions. One reason I like the Rocna is that the anchor sets every time and very quickly. Granted, it is a bit harder to retrieve than the Danforth, due to the fact that it always comes up with about 30 lbs. of mud/sand/weed on it... but I’ve never had to try and raise it and re-set it because it failed to set.

BTW, the ground tackle setup on my boat was actually less than $2000 for everything, including the anchor, chain, rope, bow roller, windlass, cleats, chocks, rub strakes and chain pipe. It pays to shop around.

If you want a more reasonable anchor setup, I would recommend getting a 14 or 22 lb. Delta FastSet, with 30' of chain and 150-200' of nylon. This is basically what I have as my secondary anchor.

BTW, the Danforth that comes with the boat is a 13 lb. one IIRC. IMHO, Danforths and other fluke-type anchors are good as lunch hooks or secondary stern anchors, but not to be relied upon as a primary anchor. They don’t reset well and in the case of a multihull, tend to "kite" once they pull out, since the boat has more windage and often moves faster than a monohull would in a reversing wind situation.

Dan,
Looking at a manual windlass, I can't find anything lower in price than $1800.00.
What kind did you install? I've looked at the Muir.

Thank you,

Rick

[Ron]

The manual lists an 11 pound fluke (danforth) with 6 feet of chain and 100 feet of line as standard equipment. I wound up using a 14 pound (not 15 as mentioned) Delta with 20 feet of chain and about 200 feet or line, but I would probably have opted for the 16 pound CQR if I had to actually buy one.