Ventura brake conversion

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jackalope
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Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:51 pm
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Ventura brake conversion

Post by jackalope »

I have read that some of you have
converted the T-28 ventura trailer to four
wheel brakes and I am considering this.
What would you estimate the cost of this
conversion D.I.Y. or commercially today ?
Is there a substantial differance in the cost
of disc over drum brakes ?
Thanks for your input....Jackalope
Ron
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Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:15 pm
Location: SW Florida
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Ventura brake conversion

Post by Ron »

With disc brakes you'd have to convert or buy a new brake acutuator (the tongue) with a backup pressure relief solenoid, so that would add to the price of the conversion. You'd also need short rubber hoses for each wheel because the caliper is floating. Drum brakes use a different actuator and the steel brake lines connect directly to the fixed backing plates and wheel cylinders. The cost of the brakes themselves are similar, say $110 a wheel for discs and $100 for drums (assuming you were replacing the entire drum assembly and you used name-brand parts). The actuator and solenoid would run about $190, and the 4 rubber brake hoses around $50. Therefore the disc brake conversion would cost around $280 more in parts. My conversion to four Tie-Down 9.6 inch disc brakes ran me about $600 2 or 3 years ago. The stuff was on sale when I bought it, saving maybe $100 in total. Prices have not changed that much. Best prices seem to be at - http://www.easternmarine.com/, also know as Trailer Parts Superstore.

I'd recommend the 9.6 inch Tie-Down Engineering system because it WILL fit behind the 13 inch wheels. Some others will not. The Tie-Down rotors are ventilated and the calipers are aluminum. Nothing better on the market.

There is a MAJOR difference between the horrible (and illegal) stock 2 drum system (rated for 3,000 pound max) and the 4 wheel disc brake conversion. The damn thing actually stops now. Braking distances must be 40 percent shorter, with full control. Trailer wheel temperatures after a sustained high speed (65 mph?) run with braking went from over 300 degrees to around 125 (I carry a laser temperature gauge on the truck). I've measured nearly 400 degress at the 2 drum brake wheels which is way, way, way too high. Lucky the tires did not blow out. Cool down time is much quicker. Trucks brakes also dropped around 30 degrees because it was no longer supplying most of the braking for the trailer.

Four new drum brakes would help solve some of the problems as well. But salt water will kill them in about a year. Disc brake rotors will not hold the salt water and can be flushed out much easier. Disc brakes run cooler, and can shed the heat much, much faster. There's got to be a reason why virtually every car and truck in the world comes with disc brakes now, right ???
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
seicam
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Ventura brake conversion

Post by seicam »

I second what Ron says. My boat & trailer was delivered already after all this was discussed, and it had 4 breaks installed, but only drum breaks, not disk breaks. After half of the season of putting the boat in and out of the salt water one of the breaks started locking, due to rust. I somehow limped to the end of the season, but after that I got all breaks replaced with the disk breaks. I was not brave enough to do it myself, so the whole thing run me for about $1200. It's worth it. One additionall benefit that Ron has not mentioned is that with acutator with backup relief it is actually quite easy to back up the trailer now, while earlier it was always hard to start going in reverse.
Ron
Posts: 1136
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:15 pm
Location: SW Florida
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Ventura brake conversion

Post by Ron »

In theory, drum brakes should not have to have a pressure relief valve on the actuator to back up. They are not supposed to grab in that direction, but that all changes once the system starts to develop rust. I've had drum brake boat trailers that eventually would not back up at all.

Also - there are two kinds of pressure relief valves. One will just cut the hydraulic pressure to the brakes, the other will cut it and divert the fluid back to the master cylinder. Get the latter one. The simple cutoff will work on flat ground - but just cutting the pressure while backing up on a slight grade will result in an increase in the line pressure and it will probably wind up locking the brakes anyway. The pressure has already built up in the lines because of the grade. Much better to divert it back to the master.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #359 "Tri-Power"
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