Travel Lift to Boat Stand

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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby vancouver » Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:05 pm

I am acquiring a new to me Telstar in the next couple of weeks. I will have to bottom paint it before the launching which will be from a travel lift. I have read the manual on the placement of the straps and think I understand the proper place. It seems sensible to have the boat lifted off the trailer and placed on stands for the bottom paint, since I can get at the center board. Also the yard crew will move the stands to get at the other parts of the boat. Anyone have any advice on the proper use of stands on the hull and amas.

Thanks.
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby Ron » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:05 pm

There are detailed instructions with pictures as to where to put the straps and the stands in the owners manual. The stands, which need a wide surface area to avoid any point contact, will be basically under the two bulkheads. You don't have much leeway as to where you can position the stands on the main hull. You may find it easier to leave the boat on the trailer with the ama's out, paint most of it, then jack up each end one at a time to get to the area under the bunks. The manual shows that as well. Don't put any real loads on the ama's, folded or unfolded. Maybe a pair of saw-horses to keep it from tilting over.
Ron Marcuse
Telstar 28 #59 "Tri-Power"
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby Dan » Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:36 pm

When I did the barrier coat and bottom paint on my boat, I supported the weight of the T28 on two supports that were located basically where the "pads" on the trailer are. I also used a single boat stand to "support" each ama, to prevent the boat from tipping. I moved the stands under the ama as necessary to finish painting the amas, and used a floor jack to lift the boat to get the areas over the supports for the main hull.
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby trashpad » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:04 am

How would you go about removing the trailer from under the Telstar? Bay Wings does not use her trailer so John said I can use it to move Reboot home to repaint. I wanted to jack up the boat and remove the trailer. I thought one other owner jacked up their Telstar from under the Aka's?
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby Ron » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:51 am

Kurt -

I'd go over your idea with PC first. Will and Tony both told me that the 2 ama's will support the whole boat out of the water. If that's actually true, I'd be more concerned about the point loads on the ama's - where the stands will be. If the jacks are on the aka's instead, that' would be lifting it with the 4 hinge boxes - roughly in the middle of each hinge. It might work, but ????? PC uses their travel lift to move the boats onto and off of their rolling stands which support both the hull and deck - and by lifitng them on the main hull only. It might be hard to do this without a travel lift.
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby Jerry » Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:09 pm

When I bought (picked up) my boat I asked Tony about supporting it on the two outriggers and he said he would not recommend it due to the thin way they are built. Great in water but really tough to spread load out of the water.

I need a way to do this though as I need to bottom paint.

Jerry
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby Ron » Thu Sep 17, 2009 3:29 pm

Jerry -

Get the boat on the trailer with the fore and aft deck supports rigged as well. Lower the supports for the ama's a drop, then fold them out by hand. Maybe put a saw-horse under them as insurance. You can paint nearly the entire boat now. When you're finished, raise the forward and back ends of the main hull as described in the owners manual, ONE end at a time. A few inches will do. Use a big piece of plywood to spread the load around. Then quickly paint the area blocked by the bunk and wait perhaps a half hour before you lower it. You can do some of the centerboard by lowering it as much as you can. If you ever launch via travel lift you can get the rest of the centerboard, otherwise it could get a little tricky to do it. The NJ marina that I'm using launched me for free, and is charging only $100 to put me back on the trailer. I'll set up the time to so that it's just before their lunch hour, and paint the centerboard then.
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby trashpad » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:27 pm

I found the posting, but they were supporting the Amas and not the AKAs. What you guys think?

KK



Re: Bottom painting

by judy7clark » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:08 am

In the "for what it is worth" catagory, I have taken the boat off the trailer by blocking the Amas just aft of the forward ama pivot point and under the rudder trunk. I used large styrofoam blocks under the hulls. The amas were extended and locked in position. I jacked up the boat/trailer with a floor jack, put blocking under the amas and hull, let the trailer down, let some air out of the tires and slid the trailer out.
The reason I tried this was to paint the bottom and work on the centerboard. I don't have a marina with a travel lift handy and this seemed like a reasonable solution. It worked and I have not seen any adverse effects so far...

Warm Regards, JC Grimsley
Hull # 335 TRI TRI Again
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby seicam » Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:43 pm

I am going through the same process now with Sophia. I decided to strip the factory paint, apply 4 coats of barrier paint and then paint with Hydrocoat. Below is the picture of how the boat is set up for the work.IT was moved with travellift off the trailer in folded position, placed on the wooden blocks with supporting stands and then have the amas unfolded and additionally supported for stability.

The yard people and myself are now trying to figure out what to do when they need to paint the areas where the blocks are. It would be easy if we were just applying paint, but with the barrier coat it needs more time to dry. The problem I think is that the manual specifically says that the boat should not be supported in places other then where bulkheads are, which is where the blocks are placed now. One option suggested below is to use floor jack and lift bow and/or stern one at a time, for short duration. Has anyone tried something else? What did yard recommend?

Regards,
Maciek
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Travel Lift to Boat Stand

Postby Dan » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:46 am

Maciek—

I did much the same thing, stripping the bottom paint and barrier coating the boat, back in 2007. I used a hydraulic floor jack with a large thick plywood plate to lift the boat. The plywood was either 3/4" or 1" and was used to lift both the bow and the stern as needed. I did this once—as I left unbarrier-coated and unpainted areas for last, and did the barrier coat and paint on them as a single process.

I used Interprotect 2000E and used both grey and white. The first layer was grey, and I barrier coated up to the pads and boat stands. Then I barrier-coated in white, leaving about a two-to-three inch strip around each pad of the first layer of barrier coat exposed. Then the third layer was done in grey, leaving another two-to-three inch band of the white exposed, and a fourth layer in white was done, again leaving a two-to-three inch band of the grey exposed. Then I bottom painted the boat, leaving a two-to-three inch band of the white barrier coating exposed. This should be done according to Interlux's directions, and the first layer of bottom paint should be "hot-coated" to the Interprotect 2000E.

Then I moved the pads and stands, by lifting the boat with the hydraulic jack, first the bow, then the stern. I masked the bottom paint along the outer edges of each uncoated area to protect it from getting barrier coat on it. Then I barrier-coated the exposed areas using the alternating colors, filling in the uncoated patches as needed. Once the final barrier coating was done, I removed the masking tape and bottom painted over all the unpainted barrier-coated areas.

By alternating colors, I was sure to get a fairly even coverage of the barrier coating and bottom paint on the boat. It will also serve as a warning if I sand through the barrier coating in the future. The reason this works is that Interprotect 2000E can be hot-coated onto itself, even with a few days between applications. Then, by leaving the bottom painting of the pad/stand areas until last, you can "hot-coat" the bottom paint to the barrier coating, making the adhesion of the bottom paint much more effective.

The one issue you may run into is that Hydrocoat is a water-based bottom paint, and as such, may need to be applied in a slightly different manner than a non-water-based bottom paint.

seicam wrote:I am going through the same process now with Sophia. I decided to strip the factory paint, apply 4 coats of barrier paint and then paint with Hydrocoat. Below is the picture of how the boat is set up for the work.IT was moved with travellift off the trailer in folded position, placed on the wooden blocks with supporting stands and then have the amas unfolded and additionally supported for stability.

The yard people and myself are now trying to figure out what to do when they need to paint the areas where the blocks are. It would be easy if we were just applying paint, but with the barrier coat it needs more time to dry. The problem I think is that the manual specifically says that the boat should not be supported in places other then where bulkheads are, which is where the blocks are placed now. One option suggested below is to use floor jack and lift bow and/or stern one at a time, for short duration. Has anyone tried something else? What did yard recommend?

Regards,
Maciek
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