Holding Tank FulL??

Posts about the Galley and Head systems, including plumbing, water, and propane
Dan

Holding Tank FulL??

Post by Dan »

More specifically, I re-plumbed the head and holding tank system. What I did was the following:

I plumbed the head directly into the holding tank. This frees up the 1.5" seacock and through-hull for discharging the tank and simplifies the plumbing and reduces the amount of hose involved. I then cut the hose that came from the tank pumpout fitting at the bottom of the tank about three inches above the top of the tank and put the diverter valve that was previously used for the head discharge line into the pumpout out line. One side of the pumpout line goes to the deck pumpout fitting. The other goes to a manual Whale-Henderson Mk. V diaphragm pump that is connected to the seacock and through-hull. This allows you to pump out the tank via either a pumpout facility or via the manual diaphragm pump when out past the THREE MILE LIMIT.

The Whale Mk V pump does fit in the head area, to the port side of the head itself. I cut a slot in the partial bulkhead that is just aft of the head, that crosses the head compartment, and the MK V's pump handle fits through the slot.

Some people have commented that you lose the ability to discharge the head directly overboard, but I don't see that as much of an issue, since anyplace you could have discharged the head directly overboard, you can DUMP THE TANK overboard instead. It requires an extra step, but there really isn't a functional loss of capability.

The simplified plumbing makes the boat more seaworthy and easier to troubleshoot. The 1.5" discharge line has a few things working as safety mechanisms now: First, you have the seacock, which should be closed unless actively dumping the tank. Since you don't dump the tank as often, you don't have to open this seacock as often. Second, the diaphragm pump acts as a check valve, since that is basically what a diaphragm pump is...two check valves in line around a bellows. Third, the diverter valve acts as a third closure for seawater intrusion. Also, since the diverter valve is mounted above the waterline, even if this were left open, it is unlikely that seawater would find its way into the holding tank.

You need to use a diverter valve, rather than just a 1.5" Y-splitter because the diverter valve itself acts to protect the manual discharge diaphragm pump from damage in the case you ever left the seacock open and tried pumping out the holding tank. Without the diverter valve, pressure from the pumpout system could force seawater back through the diaphragm pump, damaging it.

If you have any questions, please contact me via my blog.
tricruiser wrote:Hello Guys,

From what I have seen on my boat (new owner)and according the manual the only way to empty the holding tank is to pump it at a pumping station.
OK for lakes but when in open sea it is allowed to empty the tanks. looks like we cannot do it.
Does anyone done a modif to allow it?
dcsailing1
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Holding Tank FulL??

Post by dcsailing1 »

Why your blog Dan? Why not here on "our" forum?
Dan

Holding Tank FulL??

Post by Dan »

Because I'm down at the marina a lot more this summer and don't normally carry my laptop when I'm there...I can get my e-mail from my blog on my cell phone.
luigisante
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Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 1:19 pm
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Holding Tank FulL??

Post by luigisante »

Hi all ... still refitting my Mark 1. This is the first I've seen the holding tank in the new telstars. It looks perfect for the forpeak of my boat. can somebody give me some rough dimensions? What is the capacity? Come see my cedar closets when you get a chance. :D

Lou G.
Cathyalan
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Holding Tank FulL??

Post by Cathyalan »

I investigated the Fireboy - Xintex LLM-1 and intend to install one in my holding tank. It appears I do not have to remove the tank to install the device but have a question. In the picture below am I looking at the top of the holding tank? Meaning is this a "shelf" above the actual holding tank or is this the actual holding tank?

Alan



holdingtank.JPG (35.03 KiB) Viewed 44 times

Cathy & Alan #313
Jerry
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Location: Lake Champlain Vermont side Point Bay Marina
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Holding Tank FulL??

Post by Jerry »

Pretty sure it is the tank itself. Photos below are of shelf above tank (propped up to see) and the tank below the shelf. I drilled straight gown ant put the Fireboy in. You need to set the Fireboy up to read correctly for the depth of the tank. I do not remember how it is done but the directions were pretty clear and once I drilled the hole and determined the depth of the tank IIRC I set it up using a spare battery, a couple electrical jumpers and 5 gal bucket where I could adjust the water level. Not a bad project but I had PC leave a spare wire from the tank location to the instrument location because I knew I was doing this. I guess you could grab power somewhere in the head and put the gauge there.
Cathyalan
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Holding Tank FulL??

Post by Cathyalan »

Jerry,

What year is your boat? Ours is a 2005...assuming our holding tanks are the same size what length sender did you get and why the choice of flanged over threaded? I have small 28amp, 12 volt batteries used in medical equipment, about the size of a 4 soda cans. Work really well for light current current applications and yes, I will mount the gauge in the head area.

Alan
Cathy & Alan #313
Jerry
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Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:04 pm
Location: Lake Champlain Vermont side Point Bay Marina
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Holding Tank FulL??

Post by Jerry »

Alan,

My boat is a 2009. I think it is 3rd from the last built. Sorry I can not remember the answers to all of your questions. I know I got one longer then I needed (West Marine only sold 24"), cut it to fit and calibrated it according to the instructions. As far as flange vs threaded I had nothing to thread into on the top of the tank.

If you have the cabin fans you may be able to get power from the wiring for them that is in the head. The panels on the head side remove easily - no screws - just friction fit. At least mine do.

Jerry
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