Water tank
Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:04 pm
I just got off the phone with Tony.
The water tank is formed in place with the port side of the tank being the hull and the starboard side of the tank being the centerboard case. A front end panel, rear end panel and and tank top are then added. This is entirely different then the holding tank which is a separate tank formed in a mold then put into the boat.
Because of this there are only basically only three places the tank can leak. Both end panels or the top (and only the top when it is very full).
Basically I have two problems to deal with.
1, The leak needs to be found and repaired from the outside of the tank with either fiberglass or 5200. Tony suggested 5200 would be fine. Now that I know for sure where to look I can do this when the weather is warmer. There is also a chance that the tube to a forward faucet leaks but I do not think so. (I can see the run to the rear faucet).
2, The lack of a hole in the bottom of the first baffle needs to be fixed by adding one - either putting a hole saw or Dremel through the access hatch and cutting the hole (Maciek - this sound like the same issue you have). We also discussed (and I think I will go this route) adding a second access hatch to the water tank located after the first baffle. this can be done by removing the rest of the area under the hinged cover and drilling through the top of the tank to install another access hatch. I think I will do this just to have both sides of the baffle available when I carefully work on the hole I need to drill through it.
Jerry
The water tank is formed in place with the port side of the tank being the hull and the starboard side of the tank being the centerboard case. A front end panel, rear end panel and and tank top are then added. This is entirely different then the holding tank which is a separate tank formed in a mold then put into the boat.
Because of this there are only basically only three places the tank can leak. Both end panels or the top (and only the top when it is very full).
Basically I have two problems to deal with.
1, The leak needs to be found and repaired from the outside of the tank with either fiberglass or 5200. Tony suggested 5200 would be fine. Now that I know for sure where to look I can do this when the weather is warmer. There is also a chance that the tube to a forward faucet leaks but I do not think so. (I can see the run to the rear faucet).
2, The lack of a hole in the bottom of the first baffle needs to be fixed by adding one - either putting a hole saw or Dremel through the access hatch and cutting the hole (Maciek - this sound like the same issue you have). We also discussed (and I think I will go this route) adding a second access hatch to the water tank located after the first baffle. this can be done by removing the rest of the area under the hinged cover and drilling through the top of the tank to install another access hatch. I think I will do this just to have both sides of the baffle available when I carefully work on the hole I need to drill through it.
Jerry