Steering linkage failed - part numbers anyone?

[Mark]

My steering linkage failed due to corrosion in the stainless steel double threaded rod connecting the tiller to the rudder. The rod corroded inside the pivoting rod end and snapped going about. The same corrosion is also present on the rudder side connection, fused to the connector but not broken.

Does anyone know a source for these rod-end pivots and for double threaded 0.5" 316 rod 18 to 19 inches long?

Picture attached

Mark

[Ron]

I had to replace one of these rods and ends several years ago. As I recall, they are commercially available. Forgot where I got them, but I usually dealt with McMaster-Carr for the cars I've built or restored. I may have had to cut the threads at one or both ends. Not sure.

[Mark]

Thanks Ron - My swivel ends attach with a bolt that has a swivel surface below the nut to allow for misalignment, I can't find these. MacMaster has a swivel ball end that should work except that the one that takes a 0.5 inch rod also uses a 0.5 in bolt (my set up has a 3/8in bolt) so I would have to go down to 3/8 in rod as the plate it attaches to is inaccessible to a drill.

[Ron]

I remember working on this thing about 5 or 6 years ago. Probably got the rod and some parts from Macmaster-Carr, could have done the work on it in my friends machine shop. Saved the old damaged one for a few years, threw it out maybe last year. I'll ask my friend (he use to have a Telstar) if he remembers what we did.

[Mark]

The problem was the rod rusting. Heat was needed to remove it from the rod end one side and I drilled/tapped it out from the other side so I could use the ends again. It was corroded enough to crack open the jam nut. I used a 24" 0.5"-20 316 stainless completely threaded rod from Grainger (9NL79) and cut to size. The 316 0.5"-20 jam nuts were from Fastenal (77834).

One problem may have been is that the rod ends have a vent hole on the sides so any water that gets in can't drain out. The removal of the rod ends from the metal plate is difficult because the bolt head is countersunk and near impossible if rusted. The only way I can see to do it is to cut or grind away enough metal to allow access if the bolt is going to be used again (it is unique to the rod end and may not be replaceable).